When one thinks of autumn in Japan, the first image that often comes to mind is the vibrant autumn foliage. While enjoying temples and gardens surrounded by colorful leaves is a classic autumn experience in Japan, autumn is more than just the changing leaves.
Sone Kogen in Nara Prefecture is a vast highland area covering approximately 40 hectares. It is located at the foot of Kuruso Mountain, which stands at 1,038 meters and is one of Japan’s 300 famous mountains. The plateau showcases entirely different colors depending on the season. In spring, controlled burns are performed on the mountain, and in autumn, you can enjoy the beautiful silver grass. The best time to see the silver grass is from late September to late November, about two months.
In late November, as the weather finally turns autumnal, the temperature in the mountains is around 7 degrees Celsius. We drive for about two hours from Osaka, taking breaks at parking areas, heading towards Nara Prefecture. Along the way, there is a large farmar’s market. At the farmar’s market, you can find locally harvested vegetables and fruits, as well as regional specialties. Everything is unique, and just browsing through them is exciting. I purchased kuzumochi, a specialty of Yoshino in Nara. Kuzumochi is one of Japan’s traditional sweets. It is made mainly from kudzu starch, a plant-based starch, and has a characteristic translucent and soft texture. It is often enjoyed with kinako (roasted soybean flour) and kuromitsu (black sugar syrup).
As you enter Nara Prefecture, the scenery changes dramatically. The mountain roads stretch on, with small villages appearing here and there. A stream runs alongside the road, and as you drive along the unbroken mountain paths, you can imagine how beautiful the starry sky must be at night. We finally arrived just before noon. After parking the car and walking for a few minutes, a magnificent autumn landscape unfolds before us. The silver grass sways in the wind, producing a soft rustling sound. Bathed in sunlight, it sparkles in a shimmering silver. The reflection of the autumn sky and silver grass on Kame Pond is so captivating that it makes you lose track of time. The appearance of the silver grass changes between daytime and evening. In the evening, the silver grass glows golden in the light of the setting sun, creating a mystical scene.
At the entrance, we found a small shop selling konjac dengaku, kusa mochi, and roasted sweet potatoes. Wanting to warm up with something hot, we decided to buy the roasted sweet potatoes that my son had been craving. The sweet potatoes were divided into three portions and were deliciously warm, with a bright yellow inside. When it comes to autumn, roasted sweet potatoes are a must. After warming up, we started our journey back.
On the way, we discovered a quietly situated back wheat noodle(soba) restaurant in a traditional Japanese house. It matched the rustic atmosphere of the countryside perfectly. We decided to stop for lunch, but unfortunately, by the time we arrived, the soba had sold out, and we couldn’t enter. The ambiance was so charming that we promised ourselves to come back and try their soba next time.
Access
By Car
- Start from the Kyoto area using the Meishin Expressway.
- Exit at Konan IC and head south on National Route 477.
- Follow the signs for Soni Kogen.
By Public Transportation
- From JR Nara Station, transfer to the Kintetsu Yoshino Line and get off at Yamato-Kamiichi Station.
- From Yamato-Kamiichi Station, take a taxi or bus to Soni Kogen.
LOCAL INFORMATION
Soba restaurant: Ichinyoan